To order a finished wrap head on over here: The Gotto Godda Wrap or scroll down for the free pocket shawl pattern.
Dress it up or dress it down, jeans or a dress; The Gotto Godda Wrap is the accessory you never knew you needed. Whether you are lounging at home or hard at work in the office, walking the beach or taking a road trip, running errands or unplugged around the bonfire; this wrap will keep you cozy without skimping on style. Keep your hands toasty or stash the necessities in the over-sized pockets that are featured on each end. Yes!! It has pockets!!
This wrap is a great project for a confident beginner that’s ready to test their skills and maybe even learn a new technique or two. It is made in 3 sections; the main body using simple stitches with some easy counting, the textured border using front/back post double crochets in the round, and the pockets that will be sewn on at the end.
The length from pocket to pocket will match your height (the same length as your wingspan). The textured border that is worked around the entire perimeter adds an additional 2 inches past each pocket. The Gotto Godda measures approximately 18 inches wide providing plenty of coverage. Optional fringe brings on some boho flair and adds an additional 5 inches on each end.
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Materials Needed:
4 skeins (355 yards each) I love this Yarn or another category 4/worsted weight yarn.
(Yarn needed is based on a wrap for someone 5′ 5″. I used the 4th skein for 1 pocket and the fringe and had a lot left over. You may need a 5th skein if it is for someone much taller, or possibly only 3 if it is for someone much shorter and/or omitting the fringe)
6 mm (J) hook – I’m using my favorite Clover Amour hook
Stitch markers
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Tape Measure
Optional: DVD case for easy fringe cutting
Guage:
4″ x 4″ swatch = 13 DC x 7 rows
Stitches/Abbreviations:
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
HDC- half double crochet
DC- double crochet
BLO- back loop only
FLO- front loop only
FPDC- front post double crochet
BPDC- back post double crochet
sk- skip
st- stitch
sl st- slip stitch
Notes:
Pattern is written using American crochet terms
Starting chain is adjusted based on the height of the recipient. Must be an odd number.
To determine starting chain:
1″ = 3.25 stitches I am 5′ 5″. 5′ 5″ = 65 inches 65 x 3.25 = 211.25 stitches. Round up. Starting ch = 213
In other words: take your height in inches and multiply by 3.25. Round up to the nearest ODD number.
Starting chains by height:
5′ = 195
5′ 1″ = 199
5′ 2′ = 203
5′ 3″ = 205
5′ 4″ = 209
5′ 5″= 213
5′ 6″= 215
5′ 7″ = 219
5′ 8″ = 221
5′ 9″ = 225
5′ 10″ = 229
5′ 11″ = 231
6″ = 234
The Pattern:
Create your starting chain based on your height from above.
- Working in the back bump, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (check out a tutorial for the back bump here – The Back Bump)
- ch 1, HDC in each st across. Turn.
- ch 2, DC in 1st st, DC FLO in each st across until 1 st remains, DC in last st. Turn.
- ch 1, HDC in 1st st, HDC BLO in each st across until 1 st remains, HDC in last st. Turn.
- ch 3, sk 1st st, DC in next st, *ch 1, sk st, DC in next* repeat across. Turn.
- ch 2, DC in 1st st, DC in ch sp.* DC in next st. DC in ch sp. Repeat from *across. Turn. (Note: your last DC should be in the ch 3 sp from the previous row)
- Repeat row 5
- ch 2, DC in each of next 30 DC/ch sp, place stitch marker, DC in each DC/ch sp until the end.
- ch 2, DC in 1st st and next 29, *ch 1, sk st, DC in next st *repeat until you reach marker. DC in marker and each st across.
10-23. Repeat rows 8 and 9.
24. ch 2, DC in each st across. Turn.
25. Repeat row 5.
26. ch 2, DC in each st across. Turn.
27. Repeat row 5.
28. ch 1, HDC in each st/ch sp across. Turn.
29. Repeat row 3.
30. Repeat row 4
31. ch 1, sc in 1st st and each across.
**Do not fasten off
Border:
Round 1. DO NOT TURN and working down short side: ch 1 sc across until you reach the corner following this pattern:
If you are working into a:
sc row – 1 sc
HDC row – 1 sc
DC row – 2 sc
ch 1 at the corner. sc in each st along the long side.
ch 1 at the corner. sc along the short side following the above pattern
ch 1 at the corner. sc in each st along the long side. ch 1. join to first sc with sl st.
Round 2. TURN. ch 2 *(2DC, ch1, 2DC) in ch 1 sp, DC BLO in each st across *repeat around, join to 1st DC with sl st.
Round 3. DO NOT TURN. ch 2 BPDC around 1st st. FPDC around next. *(2DC ch1 2DC) in ch 1 sp, BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st *repeat until the end. Join to first DC with sl st.
Round 4. Repeat round 3.
Fasten off.
Pockets (Make 2):
ch 25
- working in back bump HDC in 2nd ch from hook and each across. Turn
- ch 2, DC in 1st st, DC FLO in each st across until one st remains, DC in last st. Turn.
- ch 1, HDC in 1st st, HDC BLO in each st across until 1 st remains, HDC in last st. Turn.
- ch 2, DC in each st across.
- ch 1, HDC in each st across.
6-15. Repeat rows 2-5. (Row 15 will be the same as row 3)
16. ch 2, working down side, DC across following this guide:
HDC row= 1 DC
DC row = 2 DC
You should have 22 DC’s across.
17. Ch 2. *FPDC around 1st st, BPDC around next st * repeat to the end. (Place last st around the turning ch from previous row.) Turn.
18. . Ch 2. *BPDC around 1st st, FPDC around next st *repeat to the end. (Place last st around the turning ch from previous row). DO NOT TURN.
ch 1, working down side, sc down and around 3 sides. Fasten off leaving a very long tail for sewing your pocket on.
Sewing on the pockets:
Using stitch markers, attach your pocket like shown. Be sure both the wrap and pocket have right side facing up. (You can tell the right side by all of the ridges and texture created with those BLO/FLO stitches). Use a whip stitch, working through the BLO of the pocket, to sew around 3 sides starting from the top right corner. Fasten off. **I add extra stitches and work through both loops in each corner for extra security.**
Weave in all ends.
Optional fringe:
Cut your fringe about 11″ long. For easy fringe cutting, wrap yarn around the short side of a DVD case and cut.
Evenly attach 4 strands at a time starting in one corner and working across skipping about 5 stitches between.
To see how I cut my fringe and attach, check out the fringe portion of the Marley Throw Pattern here: The Marley Throw
Whew!! It’s finished!! Try it on and test it out….and be prepared to never take it off again!!
Feel free to sell the wraps you make using my pattern, but please link back here and always use your own photos. Tag me on Facebook or Instagram; I love to see your awesome makes!! Use #gottogodda #carlieflo
I have a question. I’m on row 26 and it looks like the top part of my shawl is starting to bow inward. Is this how it’s supposed to look or have I done something wrong? Thank you.
Hi Ruth!! The main body should be an even rectangle. If it’s starting to bow it’s possible you’ve dropped some stitches? All of your “solid” DC rows should have the same number of stitches as your very first row. Hope that helps!!
Could I ask for help on row 6 of the pattern, it says to ch2 *dc in 1st st dc in chain space* repeat across. How can I repeatedly stitch into the 1st stitch does it mean complete 1dc then 1dc in chain space or should I be dc in each space with no stitches between? HELP 😆
Thank you so much for sharing the pattern and the starting chains for your height. This was very helpful. It’s very much appreciated. Many blessings to you.
I’m so glad the information was helpful!! Thanks, Ana!
Have just saved this pattern. I live in Hawaii, so not much need and I have a few ‘wraps’ and ‘pashmina’ but this was so pretty. Love the delicate mint green color. Well, it’s a little ‘chilly’ today (79? that’s chilly, right?) and I do have a shirt on today. This delicate wrap would be perfect!
Thanks for sharing the pattern.
Thank you Andrea!! I never thought I’d say this but- I’ll keep my fingers crossed for some cooler weather for you in Hawaii so you have a good excuse to make one more wrap 😉
I love that you added the math for the height and starting chain number, that is such a big help. Just followed your Instagram, I’ll tag you when I make it. Thank you so much!
Thanks for all the love April!! I’m glad that info helps- just be sure to check your gauge for the best fit. Can’t wait to see your wrap!!
Could I ask for help on row 6 of the pattern, it says to ch2 *dc in 1st st dc in chain space* repeat across. How can I repeatedly stitch into the 1st stitch does it mean complete 1dc then 1dc in chain space or should I be dc in each space with no stitches between? HELP 😆
Ope!! My bad 🤦🏼♀️ lol!! You’re going to be doing a dc in each stitch and each ch space across, a solid row of dc.
So dc in 1st st dc in ch sp. *dc in next st, dc in ch sp. Repeat from * hope that makes more sense 😂
Thank you so much for replying so quickly! Now I can get back to it! Really enjoying it!
Me again 😬 I’m guessing the pattern on row should state ch2 dc in 1st st and next 29 place marker ….
Oops that should say row 9 😂
Nope- you won’t need a marker on row 9. Only on the solid DC rows.
I’ve got a quick question. If I start with a chain of 213, is that the amount of stitches I should keep throughout? And if not, how many? Thanks in advance!
Hi Carla!! If you start with a chain of 213 you should have 212 stitches. Yes, you will keep that same number of stitches throughout the body of the wrap. Once you reach the border section you’ll be increasing, but in the corners only. Hope that helps 😊
I just completed row 9,and it now says to repeat row 8 and 9 and to dc in each dc and ch space. However I am starting on a row of solid dc,I don’t understand please help.
Hi Cheryl! for those repeating rows, you are correct in that there are only DCs for the first 30 stitches, no chains anymore. You can just omit the word chain right there. You’ll be working 30 DC across the first 30 DCs. I hope that helps clear it up a little 😊
You are such a star!
Very nice pattern
Hello, wondering if you could advise what row 5 should say. All I see is the number and then an ad.
Many thanks.
Row 5: ch 3, sk 1st st, dc in next st. *ch1 sk st, dc in next st. Repeat from * across. Turn
question on row 5, what is the pattern? there is an ad there and I don’t want to skip it.
NVM. just saw the answer.
I saw that you found the answer but I’ll post again in case someone else runs into the same problem. I have no idea why that has happened to a few of you… ugh!! 🙁 If anything else gets covered just let me know and I’ll post in the comments 😊
Row 5: ch 3, sk 1st st, dc in next st. *ch1 sk st, dc in next st. Repeat from * across. Turn
I’ve made it to the border! I’m stuck on round 2 I am confused where to find the ch space as I’ve just completed a row of sc.
Also do I complete all the stitches in the bracket in the chain space and then carry on with the rest of the instructions? And then repeat from **?
Sorry 😳
on round one you should’ve made a ch 1 in each corner as you worked around. If you didn’t, don’t frog, just work between two sc at the corner. It’s ok if you have to kind of fake it there. The ch 1 just makes it easy to find the exact corner. Then you’ll alternate bp/fp stitches until you get to the next corner. And yes, in each corner you’ll be working everything that’s in the ().
Not fp/bp- on round 2 youll be working BLO. Sorry. I jumped ahead a round
I have a question. Can you please make a video of all these steps. I need to watch the videos to follow along. PLEASE!!!!
Oh gosh- I have a terrible time following along to videos so I wouldn’t even know where to begin with making one 😬
Is there a certain part you’re stuck on? Maybe I can reword it for you to help you through?
I’m not a regular crocheter and am having trouble with row 7. Do the instructions mean I don’t crochet to the very end, and am left with a shorter row minus 3 stitches? Not sure what to do at the very end of row 7 because of the closer grouping of stitches from the beginning of row 6. Hope my question makes sense. Thanks so much for you help!
Hi Eva!! Another way to look at it is like this: row 6- dc all the way across. Row 7. Dc in every other st with chains in between. The entire body of the shawl should have the same amount of stitches in each row. If you’re still hung up just send another message and I’ll try to help you work through 😊
This is such a lovely pattern. Works up beautifully and edges don’t roll. My only problem was determining the right side when getting ready to sew on pockets. Any help you can give? This was the best designed pocket shawl I’ve made. Including the formula for the starting chain for the different sizes was very much appreciated.
Thank you so much Jenifer!! I truly appreciate your feedback ♥️
In determining the right side/wrong side. If you look at the beginning rows where you had done the front loop row/back loop row- you should see a pretty distinct ridge there. Flip it over and it’s basically flat. The flat side would be the wrong side. Ridges are the right side. Hope that helps 😊
Hello! I have a question, do the beginning row chains count as a stitch.
Hi Amelia!! No, the turning chain does not count as a stitch. I work right into the first stitch. With one exception- on rows that begin with ch 3, that counts as your turning ch + a ch 1 for the skipped st.
Hope that makes sense.
It does. Thank you so much for a quick reply! 🙂
I love this pattern, made it in oatmeal color for. my daughter who is 5 ft. Everything is always to long. But this is amazing. She absolutely loves it. And so do I. So now this going to be Christmas gifts for my sister, Daughter inlaw and myself. Ranging in height from 4ft 10 to 5 ft 7. Each one will fit!!! Thank you!!!!
Awww I’m so glad it worked out for both of you!!! Sounds like everyone in your family will be nice and cozy for Christmas 😊Thanks for the awesome feedback, Heather!!
Hello from the UK
Is there a printable version of this pattern please ?
Hi Christine!! I don’t have a printable version yet but I’m hoping to have the PDF available for purchase in the near future.
Ok, thank you
I don’t understand round 2 of the border. Ch 2 then I put the next 5 stitches into one stitch (2DC, ch 1, 2 DC)? Then a DC in the BLO, then repeat. That’s 6 stitches into 2 SC from the previous row? I don’t understand. Same thing in round 3. Thanks for the help. I love the pattern!
Yes, Ma’am. During round one you should’ve placed a ch at each corner. For round 2 you will turn your work so that those 5 stitches go into the ch1 creating the corner. Without the added stitches in each corner it would start to curl.
So those 5 stitches are only in the corner and it is DC across the in the BLO. I understand now. Thank you so much!!!
Exactly!! If you have any other troubles just let me know
This is a beautiful pattern. Thank you so much for posting it!!!
I have a quick question instead of starting out with the back bump sc, can I start with the chain less sc?
I’ve never mastered the foundation stitches lol!! I like to do the back bump so that it leaves the v’s across the bottom row- makes it easier to work the border for me. Just remember to subtract one chain from your stitch count and I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t start with chainless sc’s
Hi, love the look of this pattern. Is it possible to make it wider? My daughter wants one but wider… thoughts?
Hi Patti! To make it wider, I think the easiest way would be to repeat rows 5 and 6- and then repeat those rows again on the other end (after you complete the middle section where the pockets will go) to keep the pockets centered. It’s going to alter the row counts so you’ll just have to be watchful of that while following the pattern.
I hope that helps!!
First of all, this is a beautiful pattern and I’m enjoying making it! Thank you for posting it!
I made it to the border, and I am completely lost! For some reason, the round one instructions are just not clicking with me. (I’m such a visual person).
I’m stuck and in need of help.
Thank you so much!! I think I make the border sound more complicated than it is- for round 1 you’re going to sc around with one chain in each corner. The actual stitch count isn’t important you just don’t want the edges to curl. To keep it nice and flat without buckling I follow this rule while working down the short side- if I’m working into a sc row or a Hdc row: work one stitch. If it’s a dc row I work 2 stitches.
I hope that helps clear it up. If you have any other trouble let me know.
Thank you for your prompt reply. That makes perfect sense the way you just described it.
Thank you! I may be back. 😉
Is that a dc in each stitch or dc in each stitch/space? Thank you.
Sorry that was in row 26
That should be every dc/ch sp. Row 26 will be a solid row of dc. Sorry about that
I hope this is my last set of questions. 🙂 I made it to the pockets.
I’m assuming that row 17 & 18 are going to be the top of the pocket. So, I would turn after row 16, right?
Also, after row 18, you state to work sc’s down and around the 3 side. You don’t mention it, but I am assuming I want to also make sure that there are 22 sc’s on what will be the bottom of the pocket. Is that correct?
You will turn to start working down the side of the pocket after row 15. Row 16 is worked into the edges of the pocket rows and then 17 and 18 will give you that same texture as the border. And then as far as the sc’s it should work out to 22 but it truly won’t matter if you have more or less- as long as it’s staying flat without bunching. We’re just cleaning up the edges so they look nice once we see them on. Also- once you get to pinning and sewing them on, if you just lay the pocket flat onto the shawl, you’ll see the pocket is smaller than the space assigned- I pin the corners and sort of stretch it to fit that space as I’m sewing, just following along the rows on the shawl. Stretching it to fit means you won’t have floppy pockets- or at least not SO floppy.
PS- I don’t mind the questions at all!! They all help me to make my designs a little better 😊
Thank you for your prompt reply & I REALLY appreciate how you mentioned the pocket size is smaller than the space allowed.
I was starting to think I did something wrong, or went tighter in my tension. Whew!
Thank you for sharing your pattern for this beautiful pocket shawl!
Looking for clarification on Round 2 of the border. Do I only do the brackets for the first stitch and the rest is DC BLO?
TURN. ch 2 *(2DC, ch1, 2DC) in ch 1 sp, DC BLO in each st across *repeat around, join to 1st DC with sl st.
The brackets will go in each corner….. so brackets in the 1st ch space then dc BLO until you get to the next corner. Brackets again, dc blo until you get to the next corner, etc
I don’t understand round 2 of the border. It says to do something in the ch sp, but there’s no chain space because I’ve done sc all around the edge the last round. Can you help me understand?
Hi Ari! For the first round of the border there should be a ch1 at each corner. It’s ok if you missed that- it just makes it easier to find each corner. For round two when it says (2dc ch1 2dc) in the ch sp, you can just fake it and place those stitches in between two DC at each corner.
Thanks for your quick reply! I had followed the pattern and created 1 ch sp at the corners, but didn’t realize that round 2 was saying to just do the 2 dc ch sp 2 dc at the corner. It makes sense now. Thanks!
Hi, from Chile. Thanks for sharing this pattern. I’m stuck in the begining of border, in the short side, pls help! 🙏🏻
Hi Loreto! When you are working on the border you are going to sc around. When working on the short ends, you will be working into the sides of the rows. If it is a sc row, work 1 sc. If it is a hdc row, work 1 sc. If it is a dc row, work 2 sc. Hope that helps.
I got it! Thank you very much! 🌷
Hi there,
Thanks so much for this lovely free pattern – can’t wait to make it.
Unfortunately, no matter which platform I use to access the pattern, there are some row instructions missing (rows 1-9 and first round of the border) .
Help!!!
Morag
Hello. I am struggling here. In the repeating of rows 8 and 9, do I understand correctly that both rows are simply dc across, no chain 1 space and no stitch marker?
Hi Susan- you will continue alternating the rows like before
Solid dc
Ch 1/dc
Solid dc
Ch1 dc
However the ch1 rows will begin and end with 30 solid dc. This creates a solid space for the back of the pocket.
You will only need to place stitch markers on the solid rows. When you’re coming back on the ch1 row, the marker will indicate where to stop the ch 1/dc and finish the rest of the row off with solid dc.
Hope that helps ☺️
Thank you so much for helping me out so quickly. I understand the rows now, thanks to you. I did have to frog a few rows but it is worth it. I love this pattern and the Love This Yarn which I hadn’t tried before. Thanks again.
I’m crocheting away on row 20 now and wondering about the name of this project – Gotta Godda wrap. Is the name significant of something in your life?
It’s a play on words from song lyrics…. the song is “soul to squeeze” by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. Part of the lyrics say “I’ve got to- got to- gotta take it slow”… when I was designing this one I had the hardest time coming up with a name and every time I started brainstorming that song would get stuck in my head-so I decided it was meant to be lol!!
I now use lyrics as inspiration for all of my design names- whatever I’m listening to at the moment or songs that remind me of a specific design.
Thanks for the pattern as well as your explanation of the design name. It’s a great idea and, of course, I had to listen to the song on utube. Also, this could be a reminder to me to “take it slow” when I get carried away and forget to watch my tension!
Hi! I love this pattern and am currently working on this. I’m confused about the end of row 5. If my starting chain is 215, then the following rows should each have 214 stitches, correct? At the end of row 5 I end up with a skipped stitch as my stitch #214. I’m assuming I should end with a dc, which would have to be picked up from the row below but adds a stitch. Unless 2 dc are stitched next to one another without a sk st. Not sure what to do and I hope I explained so it is understandable.
I’m sorry, please disregard this question. I counted wrong – I started counting my stitches from the first dc instead of the space of the skipped stitch. Duh!
I’m glad you got it worked out- if you run into any other issues, let me know! I’d be happy to help!!
Hello! On Round 3 of the border, we alternate FPDC and BPDC. On Round 4, is the FPDC worked into the FPDC or into the BPDC, etc.?
Hi Susan!! I’m so sorry I missed this comment- I work FPDC into FPDC/BPDC into BPDC. If you chose to alternate those instead that’s perfectly fine too. It will just give a slightly different look to the texture.
I made it to the border round 3. Is the BPDC, then FPDC all along the sides but in the corner I do the 2DC ch 1 2DC?
Hi Lori!! Yes, that’s exactly right. You will create the textured border along each edge and use the increases in each corner.
I think there is a mistake in the patern, it says on row 7 repeat row 5 but on the picture it shows a complete row of DC and not DC, sk st DC . I’m a wrong?
Hi there! I just made it to the beginning of the border and I’m a little confused. Are you supposed to do the 3 rows of the short side before moving onto the long side? Or do you work each row around the border? Thanks! I am loving this pattern so far!
Hey Lindsay!! I’m glad you like it so far!! The border will be worked in rounds with increases in each corner to keep it flat… so you’ll continue on to the long side, next short side, next long side and join at the corner. It may make it easier to place a st marker in the chain st in each corner as you work around so you can easily find them for your increases. I hope that helps!! If you have any other questions just let me know!!!
I’m making this for BFF and I’m a little confused on row 8 and 9. In row 8 it states dc in each dc/chains. Do I dc in dc and and chain sp so that would a total of 60 stitches? Or is it 30 total stitches? When it states place marker do I dc in the same space or is there a sk stitch?
Hi Tammy! In these rows you’re going to be creating the solid panel that will be behind the pocket. That panel is going to be 30 stitches high and it will be worked on both ends of the shawl.
On row 8: working in both dc and ch spaces from the previous row, dc 30, place a marker in the last dc you just made. Continue to work dc in each dc and ch sp across. (Your stitch count should be the same as what you started with in the beginning) Row 9: dc 30, ch sk dc across until you reach the marker. Dc across the next 30.
I hope that helps make a little more sense of it! Let me know if I can help any more 😊