The Caspian Wrap is a gorgeous lightweight airy shawl that is perfect for spring and summer. This crochet shawl pattern is great for a confident advanced beginner to intermediate artist. The open lace stitches are created using skipped stitches and chains in conjunction with double crochet, treble crochet, and half double crochet.
For this crochet shawl pattern I am using 2 strands of Rainbow Wrapsody by YarnBee which is a gradient superfine yarn. Hobbii Cotton King cakes would be a wonderful substitute! You can also substitute for a sportweight yarn of your choice or easily adjust the pattern for any yarn in your stash using the recommended hook size.
The Caspian Wrap pattern PDF is available for purchase on Ravelry. The PDF includes additional step by step photos, printable hang tags specific to this pattern and printable laundry care cards that are perfect when selling or gifting your finished pieces. When you purchase a pattern from me you allow me to continue designing new and fresh patterns- so thank you!!
Check out all of my other patterns for wraps, bags and more!
The Riverside Wrap is another favorite!
Supplies
- Yarn: 2 strands of superfine held together
- approx: 1900 yds/ 400g/ 1740m
- 2 cakes of “Rainbow Wrapsody” by Yarnbee @hobbylobby used for pattern
- 3.75mm (F) crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
Gauge
2”x2”= 10 DC x 5 rows (before blocking)
Notes
- This pattern is written using standard US terms.
- This pattern is written holding two strands of superfine yarn together. Or substitute for 1 strand of sport weight.
- Final dimensions after blocking:
Skinny: 82” x 14”
Wide: 56” x 18”
- This pattern is written in 2 sizes Skinny (S) and Wide (W) to best use the recommended yarn. The pattern will be written as follows: S(W)
- Adjust the length by adding or subtracting repeats
- Adjust the width by adding or subtracting the starting chain in multiples of 6
Notes (Continued)
- The starting chain will be an ODD multiple of 3 + 1
- CH 1 at the beginning of rows does NOT count as a stitch.
- CH 2 at the beginning of rows counts as DC
- CH 3 at the beginning of rows counts as TR
- CH 4 at the beginning of rows counts as TR + CH 1
- Stitch counts are noted at the bottom right of each row in [ ].
Stitch Abbreviations & Symbols
CH– chain
ST– stitch
SK– skip
SP– space
HDC- half double crochet
DC- double crochet
TR- treble crochet
*- repeat instructions starting at this point
**– marks extra notes/tips
Pattern
Holding 2 strands together:
1) CH 64(100)
- HDC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across.
[63(99)]
2) CH 3, (counts as a TR) turn
- TR in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
3) CH 1, (does NOT count as a ST) turn.
- HDC in first ST and each across
**Remember: the last ST will be worked into the turning CH from previous row
[63(99)]
4) CH 2, (counts as DC) turn.
- DC in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
5) CH 1, (does NOT count as a ST)
- HDC in 1st ST and each across
[63(99)]
6) CH 3, (counts as TR) turn.
- TR in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
7) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn.
- HDC in 1st ST and each across.
[63(99)]
SECTION B
1) CH 2 (counts as DC) turn.
- Dc in next 2 ST
- *CH 1
- SK 1
- DC in next
- Repeat from * until 2 ST remain
- DC in last 2
[63(99)]
2) CH 2 (counts as DC) turn.
- DC in next ST
- *CH 1
- DC in next CH SP
- Repeat from * until last CH SP
- CH 1
- SK 1
- DC in next
- DC in last
[63(99)]
3) CH 2 (counts as a DC) turn
- DC in next ST
- DC in CH SP
- *CH 1
- DC in next CH SP
- Repeat from * until last CH SP
- DC in last 2 **last ST will be worked into the turning CH from the previous row)
[63(99)]
4-5) Repeat rows 2 and 3
6) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn.
- Hdc in 1st ST and each across
[63(99)]
7) CH 3 (counts as TR) turn.
- TR in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
8) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- Hdc in 1st ST and each across
[63(99)]
SECTION C
1) CH 4 (counts as TR + CH 1) turn.
- SK next ST
- TR in next 2
- *CH 1
- SK 1
- TR in next 2
- Repeat from * until 2 remain
- CH 1
- SK 1
- TR in last
[63(99)]
2) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- HDC in each ST across
[63(99)]
3) Repeat row 1
4) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- HDC in 1st ST and each across
[63(99)
5) CH 3 (counts as a TR) turn
- TR in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
6) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- HDC in 1st ST and each ST across
[63(99)]
Repeat Section B and Section C 8(6) times. Repeat Section B one more time.
SECTION D
1) CH 2 (counts as a DC) turn
- DC in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
2) CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- HDC in 1st ST and each across
[63(99)]
3) CH 3 (counts as TR) turn
- TR in next ST and each across
[63(99)]
4)CH 1 (does NOT count as a ST) turn
- HDC in first ST and each across
[63(99)]
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Blocking
Blocking your finished item is always optional but recommended for this pattern. Blocking the finished wrap will help to open up the stitches and straighten the edges adding length and width to your final piece.
There are many ways to block an item. One factor that determines the best method is fiber content. For this cotton blend I am using a wet block method.
There are many great tutorials on YouTube of many different blocking methods. Use a method that best suits the yarn used or follow the method I have used below.
Soak the finished wrap in lukewarm water (mild soap optional) for approximately 20 minutes or until fully saturated.
Squeeze the excess water from the wrap but do not wring. Roll the wrap in a clean dry towel. Squeeze the towel (or step on it) to pull more water from the wrap.
Lay the wrap out on a flat surface that will not be disturbed as the wrap dries such as a guest bed, carpeted floor, or spongy exercise mats.
Spread the wrap out as evenly as possible with your hands. For a bigger stretch you can use T pins to pin the wrap in place.
Allow the piece to dry completely.
